Studio set up-advice needed

[David Smith]

Hi!
Up to now I have been concentrating on bird photography so I've been on the BF forum.
I would like to try other types and am thinking of setting up a 'studio' in a spare room.
I am hoping that some kind persons(s) will give me some advice.
I attach a sketch of the room-you will note it is only 3600mm x 3300. It has a patio door to 1 side.
My equipment is Canon 40D with 17-85. I also have a Canon 480 flashgun and a decent tripod.
I would really appreciate suggestions for basic accessories such as umbrellas, back drops, lighting etc.
I did post this on BF and Paul Goode was very helpful but I would like to mull over other options.
Based in Warrington-any suggestions of where to purchase items appreciated.
Many thanks

[Don Hoey]

Hi David,

Two questions for starters.
1) What type of subject are you considering. If Portraiture then I suggest you look at Clives set up in this link
http://www.worldphotographyforum.com...ead.php?t=2387

2) Before talking brollys etc what type of lighting are you thinking of ? - a) something similar to Clives, b) studio flash, c) portable flash as in additional Canon flashguns.

Don

[David Smith]

Good questions
I want to 'learn' studio work for portraits/families etc. although I'm not sure the room is long enough (3600mm)
So, I want some basic (for basic read cheap) equipment with the idea of progressing as I learn. I realise that flash on it's own is no good so I want to find out the minimum necessary for my needs.

I am now semi retired with income to match so the idea is to supplement with family/kids photos etc. As I have a room doing little it seems a good possibility although, as I say, not sure it's big enough.
I will have a look at that link-thanks

[yelvertoft]

I'd say your room is big enough for single person portraits, or at a push, a couple. For families then, well if it's couple plus small child then ok. Big family groups? Probably not.

Clearing out the furniture (even on a temporary basis as needed) would help a lot. For lighting, Clive's setup is good but perhaps not the cheapest. There are some reasonable lighting kits available at relatively low prices from Warehouse Express but with the window/patio door arrangement you have you could produce some quite beautiful portraits using available light on the right day at the right time, especially if the patio door is North facing.

I don't know what sort of lighting lesleyr uses for some of her indoor portraits........

Duncan

[David Smith]

Again, I appreciate the response.
Although natural lighting is theoretically possible I wouldn't be able to book the 'shoots' when I want to-it would be time & day to suit the client. Therefor lighting would be necessary.
I think 'cold' light would be better but having never used iether I'm open to suggestions.
My initial thought was flash with umbrellas but the link to Clive seems to indicate constant light (lightbox?) being preferred.

Lense question.
With the limitations of room length (and the tripod will take some of that up) what is maximum wide angle you think I can use for portraits/families etc.

[yelvertoft]

Flash with umbrellas will work, but you'll be very limited if you're talking about flash units that you normally have attached to the camera (but used off camera with a brolly). A pair of studio type flash units will certainly do the job, but a lot of it is down to personal preference.

[Don Hoey]

Originally Posted by David Smith

............So, I want some basic (for basic read cheap) equipment with the idea of progressing as I learn.

For lighting then tungsten is the way to go. Flash is quite a bit more expensive.
Worth having a browse through Warehouse Express Continuous lighting section once you have an idea of budget.
http://www.warehouseexpress.com/cate...spx?cat03=3101

Afraid I cannot advise on this type of lighting as I am a flash user, but I am sure Clive will pick up on this thread.

Don

[David Smith]

Originally Posted by Don Hoey

For lighting then tungsten is the way to go. Flash is quite a bit more expensive.
Afraid I cannot advise on this type of lighting as I am a flash user, but I am sure Clive will pick up on this thread.
Don

Are you intimating that flash is better ? I already have the Canon 480-will this(in your opinion) give better results than continuos lighting?

[Don Hoey]

David,

Its all about the SIZE of the light source rather than if it is flash or continuous. A studio head just gives a larger area of light than a camera flashgun. Now you can fire a camera flash gun into a brolly to increase the area of the light but you will sacrifice a fair bit of the flash guns power due to the distance it needs to be from the reflective surface for its beam to adequately cover the reflective surface. A studio head with its bigger light can be so much closer to the brolly so less light is lost. Perhaps I need to do a couple of graphics but in the mean time have a look at this early thread on diffusion.
http://www.worldphotographyforum.com...ead.php?t=1852

Can it be done on the cheap - yes. Not the tidiest, but in this link I used 2 guns to increase the power and even the light spread ( first image ), a silver brolly, and a bit of horticultural fleece ( third image ). Check the shadow hardness ( fourth image ). To replicate that with studio units, it would have only required one light in place of the two camera flashguns.
http://www.worldphotographyforum.com...ead.php?t=1878

I will look at doing a new explanitory graphic tomorrow of studio light and brolly and camera flash and brolly.

Don

[Gidders]

David

Not sure I can add much to help you. As Don has said I currently use a continuous lighting set up with two head - Don has pointed you at the thread where I describe my set up.

I previously used a set up based on battery powered flashes with a Metz CT4 as the main one. To get the diffused soft lighting I would either bounce out of a brolly or shoot through a white one. The problem with flashes designed to work on your camera is the slow recycle time so if going down the flash route I would say a couple of studio heads is essential.

If I was planning to to studio only work I would probably go down the flash route because the power output enables a greater range of f stops and the short flash duration ensures there is no blur due to the subject moving. With continuous lighting even though my units are rated at 500 watts each to get a decent shutter speed ~1/250 I need to use ISO 800 & f4.

I went down the continuous route for photographing babies and kids under the age of ~5 Here I could be taking 100-150 shots in the space of 20-30 minutes or less to produce images like this or this

The thought of firing that many flashes in that short space of time might give kids stars before their eyes