NX Discussion, Hits ,Tips & Tricks

[Don Hoey]

Now than Nikon NX has hit the shops, I got my copy on Friday, I thought a dedicated thread may be helpful.

Unlike other full imaging programs which spawn a multitude of ' how to ' books NX will probably remain low key in that respect and most users will rely on the manual, help files and internet postings.

From other sites that I have looked at where people have posted pics with an explanation of how they got there, more time seems to have been spent slagging off the image than regarding the post as a positive contribution to the learning curve of the features of NX. This thread is aimed at learning the program, and luckily WPF is not like that anyway.

To put my posts in context I should at the outset say that I do not regard NX as a fully featured imaging program but it does contain useful features other than NEF Nikons raw conversion, that are easy to use for a ' dummy ' like me. Photoshop or other editing programs are still required to perform those actions for which NX does not cater.ction with NX.

The downside for some, other than cost, is the system requirements. Details here http://www.capturenx.com/

I am lucky in having a newish PC, 3.4GHz, with 2.0 Gig of RAM and performance varies from fast to slow. NC3.5 through to 4.4 was a killer on my laptop ( no problem on the pc ) but has never suffered the variable speed of operation issue I have encountered with NX. Hopefully I will discover this to be operator error, or it maybe down to the sequence of adjustments to the image. I am not a computer buff so will have to experiment a bit.

The first image editing post relates to a very specific idea that came from a discussion with Nikon Foxy Bob. This is something I did in the old darkroom days with traction engine pics where I printed in B&W and then coloured the brass parts by using bleach. It took ages per print applying bleach with a very fine brush. The image Gidders has in his gallery ' Something Red ' has stuck in my mind since it was posted, as it followed a similar processing style but has colour other than gold. Link here http://www.worldphotographyforum.com...ppuser=72&sl=g So it may well have had an unconscious influence in making me find a way of changing the glass lens colour in this image. Brown lenses did not work for me in a sepia image.

Don

[Don Hoey]

As mentioned in the last post the intent with this image was to convert to B&W or sepia and have the glasses frame in colour.

Due to the number of images I will spread this over 2 posts, with the follow up one detailing the process.

Images here are
1) The Origional full frame shot.
2) Thefirst patial attempt which was a straight sepia conversion and paint the glasses back in. These things are always a personal view but I did not particularly like the glasses, also thought it needed to be harder if it was to describe these dull days. Straght sepia a bit warm.
3) The final image.

Part 2 detailing the process will follow later today. Screen captures and text that makes sense takes a little longer.

Don

[Don Hoey]

I have done this part as four graphics so they can be printed. I hope they explain the steps in the process sufficiently.

I could do with a drink after that lot.

Don

[Canis Vulpes]

An Excellent insight into how your fantastic image was produced, Don I too am using Nikon Capture NX but set in my ways I am only using it to correct, adjust and convert. My aviation photography does not require much more than corrections and minor adjustments but I shoot RAW to benefit from flexibility and believe the 12-bit representation is beneficial to the final image quality.

Below are two images, 3/4 scale Spitfire has had the sky darkened using control points. I used around half-dozen control points altering them all the same. The result is not perfect but its a start. The second Harvard image shows a natural sky on the same day. I have tried this technique on grey skies but the aeroplanes fuselage become adjusted also. Although altering the colour of the sky can be performed in photoshop it cannot be performed as easy as capture NX.

Please accept my apologies for the quality of these two as they were resized without my control.

[Don Hoey]

Stephen,

Very impressed by the 3/4 Spitfire both as an image, and as a plane in its own right. I seen some superb RC models but never anything like this with a pilot at the controls.

On the 3/4 Spitfire you say you altered all six control points to the same value. Tip - initially set the area covered by the first control point quite large. It makes adjustments easier as the effect can be seen over a larger area. When happy reduce its size to what you require, this control point can now be duplicated and moved to position as many times as you require, saving individual adjustment of each one. They can be individually tweaked later if required.

In cases of adjustment to a grey sky, where the fuselarge becomes affected. Set a control point on each of the affected tones. With no adjustment they will return that area to its origional colour as in my example above. You may find you use 5 or 6 points to adjust the sky and a dozen or more straight control point drops on fuselarge to correct the colour there. These should not affect the control points that you have placed in the sky.

Have a play.

Don

[Canis Vulpes]

Originally Posted by Don Hoey

Stephen,

Very impressed by the 3/4 Spitfire both as an image, and as a plane in its own right. I seen some superb RC models but never anything like this with a pilot at the controls.

Thanks Don, I'll have an experiment with darkening grey sky.

The Spitfire is a real areoplane. It was manufactured by Pearson JWE and Luck H (CAA register entry) and is type Spitfire Mk26. It weight 720kg and is lighter than the Cessna's/Pipers I am allowed to fly with my PPL. The Spitfire appears on the U.K. register as G-CCZP is a 3/4 scale all apart from the cockpit as a real size person is required to fly it!

Back to NX... if I add a control point on grey sky and change to 100% and alter brightness then add a control point on fuselage the fuselage brightness will be preserved? I will post findings later on this evening.

[Don Hoey]

Originally Posted by Stephen Fox

Back to NX... if I add a control point on grey sky and change to 100% and alter brightness then add a control point on fuselage the fuselage brightness will be preserved? I will post findings later on this evening.

To see and understand the effect try it with part of an image. Fuselarge section like tailplane that has other colours and tones that will be affected by the sky adjustment. After doing the sky control point just drop a control point on any areas of the fuselarge that were affected by the sky control point. A straight drop should return it to the values it held before being affected by the sky control point. That is why you may end up with several unadjusted control points on your image.

Sunglasses shot used 7 to tint the lenses and 12 straight drops to return other areas affected by the first 7 to their origional values.

Don

[Canis Vulpes]

Observe the two images below. I experimented with control points (CP's) as suggested above and found darkening the sky easy but effected the subject making it flat and tonally disproportionate. I added a few control points simply dropping them on top in certain places and the original fuselage began to return however, the sky began to lighten. Adding more duplicate sky points set with low brightness only the dark sky returned. It was only when I switched off control points did I realise how much a change had occurred.

This is a little frustrating but with perseverance decent results can be obtained quickly - if that not a contradiction. I.E. once you know how its done it becomes easy and fast.

Image 1 - CP's off
Image 2 - CP's on
Image 3 - finished image

[Don Hoey]

Stephen,

Sorry I should have mentioned a couple of things in my previous post, then again I am still learning.

When using control points with skies a handy tip is to click on the ' View ' tab and show selection. This shows the area that will be affected depending on the size handle. It is a negative view but the area affected can be seen as you move the size handle. Very useful to prevent any hot spots due to insufficient size, particularly in a sky. Untick this to return to normal view.

You can also see how you are progressing by ' View ' Compare. This will show the origional and edited image side by side.

As you said once you know how its done it becomes easy and fast. It is easier to see and understand with images that are not too complex like those you posted above.

Don

[Don Hoey]

Two quick screen captures to show ' View ' Selection and how you can see the effect by moving the size slider.

Don