how close? extension tubes and teleconverters

[Saphire]

Don I have just taken a photo of the bellows and extension tubes so you can see what I have. On the icicle shot I didn't use flash but I did use flash for the wasp, Only the flip up flash on the 350d I do have a slave flash I can use.

[Don Hoey]

I had a rummage after my last picture posts and found another tube. Soooo ........

Pic attatched of part of a GB penny - 20.34mm in dia.

Same as before Nikkor 105mm lens but now 181.5mm of extension. Direct ( undiffused ) key flash and slave triggered diffused fill flash.

Due to light loss at this magnification, with an aperture of f16 the key light was 24 inches to the left of the coin. Needless to say focusing and exposure were manual.

This can be done with compatible seconhand kit. The lens, bellows and tubes are from the 1980's.

The key here is having fun. A good thing to play with when the weather is really rubbish.

Don

[Saphire]

Forgot to mention I only paid £15 for the bellows being very old to fit pentax screw, they are in mint condition and £7 for the tubes so wasn't expensive at all just to give true macro a go. I just don't understand how to relate the settings on the scale to the magnification.

[Don Hoey]

Originally Posted by Saphire

Don I have just taken a photo of the bellows and extension tubes so you can see what I have. On the icicle shot I didn't use flash but I did use flash for the wasp, Only the flip up flash on the 350d I do have a slave flash I can use.

Just been to DP Review as I am not familiar with most of the new kit.

Your flip up flash is fine for triggering a remote but just does not have the power for this sort of thing at such small apertures.

As you are quite happy rummaging around for used kit you need to look for a flash with a Guide Number of at least 24 at ISO100. The higher that number the better as you can never have too much power. You will also need a triggering device ( slave ). Good deals can be had on old flash guns as most people want the latest in multi metering TTL systems.

VERY IMPORTANT NEVER EVER connect a non system flash directly to your camera as the trigger voltage could cause serious damage to the camera electronics.

I will set to on a flash with bellows / tubes in the Flash thread. In the mean time restrict yourself to the lower magnification end of your set up as you will not need such small light consuming apertures. You now need to look at the flash thread to understand where I am coming from.

Don

[wolfie]

Have not had much time, so the following are 4 images of a screen 25mm x 15 mm.

Will probably have more time on Sunday to produce better results
The images are in sequence.

01 = Canon 100mm @ 1-1
02 = + 13mm tube
03 = +13mm + 21mm tube
04 = + 13mm + 21mm + 31mm tube

Harry

[Saphire]

Don I have just checked my flashgun. it has a guide number of 102 feet on full power down to 25ft on 1/16th power. Its the Vivitar digital Flash DF200, hope this will do the flip flash triggers it.

[Don Hoey]

That will be a G/N of 30 in metres then. As your flip up triggers it you are on your way. If you read the flash thread you will see reference to power ( your flip up will be around G/N 12 ) and diffusion. Post your next question there as it is guaranteed to be about flash.

Don

[Saphire]

My first efforts. The first two are without flash.I couldn't get the lighting right with the penny so did this without flash. I used the bellow which I can fine tune with the rail, all done on f16 had to play around with angle's diffusion, and bounce.

[Don Hoey]

Originally Posted by Saphire

My first efforts. The first two are without flash.I couldn't get the lighting right with the penny so did this without flash. I used the bellow which I can fine tune with the rail, all done on f16 had to play around with angle's diffusion, and bounce.

Hi Christine,

So a good mornings play.

The coin has come out well and just needs a touch of sharpening. I have had a go and attach it. Amazing what you got from an old 2.8 ziess tessar 50mm lens !!
The corn I gave a touch of contrast and sharpened. If you look at it you can see the zone of sharpness front to back. In close up work as you increase magnification the zone of sharpness falls away very quickly.
You can also see it here http://www.worldphotographyforum.com...3&d=1135954693 the face of the in focus gear is 5mm from the out of focus back.

As a result of this you have to be selective about the angle at which you take your subject.

I attach a graphic to explain. In your case for the elipse imagine it as a fly. Head on you could not get all of it sharp, where as sideways on you could. You can see the effect easily by typing a bit of text on your smallest font using M and X ie MXMXMXMXMXMX . Set the camera at a sharpish angle and focus dead on centre of an X. You will now be able to easily see your zone of sharpness at various bellows extension. Sometimes to get all of your subject sharp you will have to use carefull selection of angle and less magnification.

I hope you find this is helpful.

Well done today.

Don

[Rod M]

Originally Posted by Saphire

I look forward to reading how to use them to there full potential.

I can recommend " John Shaw`s Closeups in Nature" as an excellent book on this subject. He covers all combinations of lenses, tubes, bellows and lighting.
This is a very difficult and frustrating part of photography but the results can be outstanding. As was said in one of the posts practice, practice, and keep on practising and open up a world not normally seen.